Guardian of the Dragons: the secrets of Socotra's wildlife

I first heard about the island of Socotra in a browning copy of a newspaper I found at my grandparents’ house. They hadn’t kept it for this reason, but it featured a piece on British explorer Douglas Botting and his 1956 expedition to a ‘rare and rough island’ lying off the Horn of Africa. Then a young, adventure-hungry Oxford undergrad, Botting was searching to give the Oxford Exploration Club a reason to send him anywhere. So, he drew a circle around an island that neither he nor his encyclopa

The hermit of Socotra Island

He fishes by hand, lives alone in a remote cave and is a living testament to the way residents once lived on this far-flung island in Yemen. Standing on a rocky outcrop on the north-western tip of the Yemeni island of Socotra, the only signs of life that I could see were shoals of fish undulating beneath me in the turquoise water. To the west, the horizon shimmered pink over the ocean, a phenomenon caused by the dusty Arabian atmosphere. From the east rising towards the north, jagged granite pe

The trip that changed my life: camping with Bedouins in Jordan

I’m sat cross-legged on a goat skin rug, drinking sage tea brewed from leaves that we foraged a few hours earlier. The fire next to us crackles away as Ali, tall and slender, stirs a huge pot of vegetable stew. It’s swiftly served on a huge communal plate and we eat the traditional way – using our hands and khoubz (middle eastern flat bread) to soak up the delicious juices. I'm in Wadi Rum, a desert valley in southern Jordan, with my Bedouin guide, Ali. Ali loves telling tales of his life and w

Turning myth into reality: the white lions of Timbavati

'The white lions don’t exist,' my safari guide says with a smile and twinkle in his eye, 'they are just myths.' Indeed, whispers of these lions have emanated from the lands of Timbavati and southern Kruger in South Africa for centuries. But today three of them are known to exist in the wild, two of whom are found within the 148-sq-km Ngala Private Game Reserve. Sitting in the heart of the region, Ngala means lion in the language of the local Shangaan people. I tell Dyke Khosa – a man with 28 y

Wild Swimming in Raja Ampat’s Jellyfish Lake

Our boat glides silently as we weave around towering boulders of ancient limestone. Beneath us, a delicate garden of coral shows off luminescent pinks, peaches and greens. We are sailing towards a tiny, uninhabited island, hidden within the Indonesian archipelago of Raja Ampat. Here, a dense curtain of rainforest-covered cliffs shelters a lagoon home to a rare and beautiful ecosystem. We arrive at a small outcrop, mooring our boat against a lonely dock. At first glance, the island seems impenet